Saturday, September 11, 2010

Follow Up on Ethiopia

It's been just over a week since I've been back in the U.S. and I've had a few thoughts come to mind and wanted to answer the couple of questions that came through.

First, PDW- by the grace of God, all is being accomplished. One of the things I love about TOMS is the focus and commitment to humility and learning- as long as we continue in that, we continue to succeed.

Ryan-I love my job. And I'm not just saying that because it's the thing to say, but as I hope you can see throughout my writing, it is just such a gift to work for an organization that is so committed to serving these kids- and can do it in style! Good luck on your interviews!

On to my thoughts. The major theme of all of this actually challenges the work of major development organizations like UN. And when I say challenge, I don't mean that I am critiquing, per se, but rather issuing a reminder that I believe will further the work we are all trying to accomplish.

We, as players in this world called "international development" MUST continue to put faces, names, and humanity to the issues we are attacking. The only way we can do this is to continue to share time, meals, and conversations with those we are working to protect. It is easy to launch a campaign on AIDS or clean water, but the campaign, and thus the power behind it, looks much different when we remember who we serve. And I actually am not solely speaking to those sitting in the marketing and fundraising departments. We as organizations, as staff, must make this an integral part of our work.

What does this mean? This means being a CEO or Director who is willing to be asked hard questions without regard to ego or pride. This means being an accountant or logistics coordinator who will not forgo small details for the sake of ease or laziness- because you know that suffering children like Mesarat, Jose, or Selam will continue to go unheard if you do not "raise your voice" in your job.

This means that goals like the Millennium Development Goals don't have arbitrary dates on them for the sake of campaigning and "rallying the troops", but rather serve as life-long commitments of countries, organizations and individuals. This means we spend as much money on our programs as we do on marketing them. This means that we compare organizations and call into question the shiny marketing pieces that tell anecdotal stories of success. This means that we love- and love hard.

We must remember that these causes are more than just words, diseases, and issues of justice. But these causes have faces, names, locations, habitats. It's reality and we must work with all of our might to make sure that we do not let ourselves forget. If we forget, then we are weak soldiers.

Until next time,

ACW

Tuesday, August 24, 2010

Serendipity

I almost laugh as I read the subject of this blog that I attempted to post last Tuesday. Somehow, thanks to Internet Explorer, the system lost all of my writing. But I'm back in Addis now after four days of some of the most incredible experiences. I won't even attempt to recall each day of our trip, but rather give you some highlights.

Ethiopian Airlines- I have never been in a plane with such small seats that actually "stopped off" at different airports to drop off and pick up passengers. But as we began our descent into Gambella, I was immediately struck by the colors of green- the mountains. We had touched down in rural Ethiopia.

Sister Evelyn- A 4'9" Filipino nun greeted us in Gambella. I knew immediately that I was going to love her. She has this cute voice that would give you an initial impression of naivety, but it didn't take long for you to realize that this woman is a powerhouse. She has discovered treatment methods for podo, runs more programs than most major non-profits in the U.S. and manages to do it all powered by solar energy. Her insights over the four days will be with me always.

Car rides- We drove around for the majority of our trip in a 4x4 land cruiser. And we needed it. There were moments when we were driving in the middle of fields, up steep stony hills and digging through the mud. At one point, Josh and I rode in the back of a 4x4 pick up truck on our way to one of the places we stayed. That, for me, will be a memory I carry forever. It was a bright, sunny day and we were able to enjoy the striking beauty of the Western Ethiopian countryside, ducking occasionally to avoid being knocked out from a branch or two. Another one of our car rides on our way back to Addis took us past a refugee camp of relocated people from the north. I can honestly say that I have now seen poverty. These people were living in makeshift tents of sticks covered by government-provided tarps. Babies were walking around, drenched in their own urine. The closest town is about an hour's walk away.

The Catholic Compounds- Over the course of the past four days, we stayed the night in a couple Catholic compounds. These are beautiful guest houses surrounded by colorful gardens. One night, we stayed in Sakko- a very poor rural village with some sisters from India. Between the food, the coffee ceremony, the children's choir and our multicultural music exchange (which included a debut performance of Josh Tetrick's version of Vanilla Ice), it was enchanting. During our visits, we also had the opportunity to see some serious cases of podoconiosis. It was hard to internalize the malformation of the feet, the festering wounds, and even more so, the faces of the women and men suffering from this disease. But as Sister Stella, the Superior in Sakko, said to us on Saturday morning, "We must not lose hope".

The children- Regardless of where we were, Josh and I always enjoyed playing with the kids. Josh even did a circuit workout with a group of boys in the field in Sakko. We would sing random songs and even entertain ridiculous conversations with them in English. Kids are always a reminder that there can be joy in devastating situations.

Conversations with Christel- Christel-a TOMS consultant- is one of the most amazing women I've ever met. When it comes to development, she is deep in the field, knows the people, and is passionate about her work. She has mastered the Western language and brings a steady and poignant presence anywhere she goes. We had ample time to talk with her during our 6-hour car rides when we heard stories of her first years here, her thoughts Ethiopia's development, and her insights on the NGO community. 

The moments I cannot capture in words- Among all of the meetings, travel, and conversations, Josh and I both agree that if we were to define a theme of this trip, it would be "serendipity". The exploratory nature of this trip allowed for us to enter it with little expectation. The people we have met- from Jema, the Sudanese 8 year old, to Mark Bennett- the CEO of the Addis Fistula hospital- we have been blessed.

We are here for just a few more days- we leave on Wednesday. Our last days in Addis will involve a few meetings, a trip to a silk worm farm, and some good Ethiopian food.

What would you like to know?  Feel free to post any questions you have as a response to this blog. I'd love to devote a blog (or two) to addressing anything you all would like to know.

Thank you for following with me on this journey! Next stop? Argentina!

Until next time,

ACW

Monday, August 23, 2010

Meetings, Podoconiosis, Shoes and Cipro

Last night was a tough one. Something did not sit right with my stomach, so the toilet and I became friends about 10 times throughout the night starting at around 3AM. Unfortunately, I was unable to indicate what it was that made me sick, but it got to the point of dry heaving (totally not fun). Amazing how I'm 24 years old and the very first thought in my mind was "I wish Mom was around". I'm guess that actually never goes away. I slept until about 8:30 when Josh came to my door asking if I was awake. I shared the news and he immediately suggested that I take the Cipro we brought with us. I wanted to wait it out a little bit since my stomach was no longer in pain, so I drank a cold Coke, ate a little bread and we were soon on our way to our first meeting.

Today we had a chance to meet with some NGO leaders here in Addis- folks who are working in the area of podoconiosis. For those of you who don't know much about the disease, I'm going ask that one of you- because the internet is oober slow here- would post the recent TOMS blog link in a comment below. Steve, you can probably find it the easiest, yes? In short, this is a debilitating foot disease caused by an irritant particle in the soil. It causes symptoms like swelling of the feet and legs, festering wounds, and other incredibly painful side effects. Perhaps the most challenging part of this disease is the social stigma associated with it. In talking to some of the people we met with today, they told us that those who have this disease are often considered outcasts, can never marry, and if they are found to have it, their families are considered cursed.

It is most commonly prevalent in young people ages 20+, but is not isolated to that age group. Another major challenge is that major leaders in the health world know nothing of this disease. In Ethiopia, where it is estimated that roughly 1 million people have this disease, the director of neglected tropical diseases has just recently learned of it-and only through the lobbying of some of the organizations we are meeting with. And here's the amazing part- with proper foot washing and consistent wearing of clean shoes and socks, this disease is 100% preventable.

We met Christel today- a lovely German lady who will be accompanying us on our travels to Dembidollo, Nkempte and a few other locations. She has been working in podo for just about 2 years. She is working very hard to promote a community based treatment system for this disease rather than a centralized clinic treatment system. Clinic systems often require that patients travel for days for treatment, but community-based treatment allows for community leaders to own the treatment process. As you can imagine, this takes a lot more education and training, but from what Christel has seen (and what we will see in the coming days), this is much more effective.

We then met Dr. Fasil- one of the leading researchers in podo here in Ethiopia. We met for lunch- food which I declined because my stomach was beginning to flare up again-and he shared with us about the basics of podo, prevention, and next steps. The biggest hurdle that those working in the field face is the fact that it is so unknown in the medical community. Awareness is key to furthering the work in this disease.

Shoes in Ethiopia are more than just a clothing item. Josh and I noticed this within a day of being here. The streets are lined with shoe polishing/cleaning "stations", where people of all ages (mostly male) offer shoe shining services. I mean, the streets are literally lined with these. I asked both Surafel and Dr. Fasil about this and they made it clear that shoes are a symbol of status. As Christel put it today at lunch, "If you have shoes here in Ethiopia, you are recognized person in society." She said, "If parents have any money, the first thing they will buy for their children will be a nice pair of shoes." I hope to find out about the history of that in the near future.

We got back to Don Bosco after spending a little more time with Christel and I immediately took Cipro. It's already taking effect- my stomach has calmed down and doesn't hurt any more. Mom, don't worry, I am absolutely going to stay on top of this. I rested a little while and then ate a granola bar (a MUST-bring if you ever find yourself here). Hopefully it will continue to settle.

It is a little strange to think that we have seen so much and have more than a week left here. From what Christel told us, we still have much to see-she asked us to prepare to be shocked by the level of poverty we are going to experience. So, pray for me, if you will. We leave for Dembidollo on Wednesday morning-which will probably be when the consistent blogging stops. I will commit to writing daily updates and then posting them upon our return to Addis on August 30th.

Until next time,

ACW

Observations from a Sunday in Addis

I actually tried writing this last night, but for some reason the text of the blog didn't actually publish. And maybe that's for the better- maybe this needs some more thought.

Yesterday was the first time I need time to unwind and actually process the day. It started off with an Ethiopian mass, a traditional coffee ceremony (pictures to come), followed by a lively and powerful worship service in town. Josh went running and sprained his ankle (something we're watching closely), but then met both Surafel and me at the Hilton. Unfortunately, our appointment had the incorrect time, but that actually turned out for the best. It gave us the time to snag some lunch at a local place and then explore the market a bit.

When I stepped out of the taxi into the market, it was the first time I felt that I had to clutch my bag. Beggars literally swarmed around us. And it didn't help that I was the only blonde white girl standing next to the only 6 foot muscleman white dude. Because of his previous time in sub-Saharan Africa, Josh is a bit more accustomed to the children beggars- the street kids. He explained that turning them down never gets easy, but turning them down does not enforce this lifestyle of handouts. Hard truth, but truth nonetheless. Most kids come up to you and ask for "1 burr for bread" or just flat out say "Money!", but Betsy- one of the girls who followed us throughout our time in the market had a different approach. She understood that relationships often lead to favors. So rather than just asking me for money, she walked with us, demonstrated how she knew English, sang for me, and then, right as we were about to leave, she told me how her parents had both died from HIV (her words, not mine) and how her grandmother beats her. And then, without missing a beat, she asked "1 burr for bread?" As I got in the taxi, my heart sunk. Not because the story was sad, but rather that the likelihood of this story actually being true was remarkably low. This is what poverty does to children.

We walked around a bit for the remainder of the afternoon, stopping to chat with the locals (Josh is really good at this), and even visited an orphanage that is nearby to where we are staying. The children we met there were happy, eager to sing us American songs, and even more eager for the hugs we gave that lasted just a little longer than normal. I took all that we observed and walked back to Don Bosco, a bit perplexed. Seeing urban poverty like this almost demanded that I ask some serious questions. I asked questions of impact, of purpose. I've not yet come to any radical conclusions, but after speaking with Surafel and processing the rest of Sunday, I've noted a few things and ask that you, readers, post your thoughts.  I am still very new to all of this and seek the wisdom of those who have been here longer.

1. Effective development demands so much more than anecdotes and even hard numbers- though both are important. It requires that both those supporting through donations and those actually implementing pay close attention to the unromantic reality of the people we work with. We have to listen and be absolutely willing to accept that what we are doing- and how we are doing- may not be what the people need and how the people need it.

2. Food, water, and the tangible things we provide for those who need it are by no means enough. Betsy, for example, didn't just need money for bread. If we have any understanding about the whole person, we know that Betsy needs a home, unconditional love, and a stable sense that her very identity is accepted, delighted in and cherished. Why do you think the hugs and games were of such value for the orphans we visited? As Surafel said to me yesterday- We must do more than provide for physical needs- we must show them Christ.

I finished off Sunday with a random dinner of enjera and chickpeas, followed by time with the Fathers and concluded with about an hour of singing and praying alone in the chapel. There is much to be done, yes, and I am even more confident after seeing what I have seen in these few days that making progress is truly only by God's grace through good work. 

Soon to come- notes on today.

Until next time,

ACW

Sunday, August 22, 2010

Dancing the Night Away with Two Catholic Priests and a Theology Student

Good morning! Yes, you read the title of this blog correctly. I'll get to that in a minute. But first, Josh has arrived safely! We met him at the airport last night at around 6:30 (after paying 3 burr- the equivalent of 30 cents- to get in). Josh just came on board at TOMS a couple of weeks ago and this was the first time we had actually physically met. Sounds pretty normal, right? Well, what if I mentioned that thanks to twitter and a few networking gurus, Josh and I have know each other and have been chatting about international development and life since the beginning of April? Not so "normal" any more, huh? I think this is a classic example of the power of the Internet these days. Two like-minded people who are driven towards similar goals can be deep in conversation and never actually meet- but what cool thing it is when you actually do meet- and you're co-workers! Anyway, I thought that was pretty cool. Back to Ethiopia.

When Josh and I got back to the base, we were just in time for dinner. We sat down to a potluck style dinner of vegetables, Ethiopian taquitos, pasta and "avocado juice" (which is just pureed avocado and sugar). We also had this fruit that Father Sam made both Josh and I try. "It helps clear the ruffage", he said. I nearly fell over laughing. For those of who may not know...ruffage = poop. I love this man. 

Josh and I both agree that this whole thing is a bit surreal. Last night, after dinner at the base, we went to a restaurant that featured dancing from different parts of Africa. I sat next Father Stephen who is a man with a gentle spirit and love for God. He was the one that invited us. The invitation went something like this, "Do you have a program right now?" (Josh and I both responded no to this) "Maybe you would like to go for some bottles of beers and dance?" I wish I could have taken a snapshot of this moment. Father Mark, I know you're reading this, his down-to-earth approach to life reminded me so much of you!

The dancing involved ornate costumes and pretty incredible moves. During one of the dances, the girl moved her head so fast that I was sure she was going puke. The guys on the stage must have seen my reaction, because they both began to laugh. Josh tipped them a couple dollars out of courtesy, but to them, this meant that he wanted to dance, so they pulled him up on the stage and showed him a few moves. He picked it up pretty fast- being the good natured adventure man that he is.

This day holds church,  another real estate excursion and dinner with a public health nurse I met in the Frankfurt airport. I'll be sure to report back.

Until next time,

ACW

Saturday, August 21, 2010

Waking up in Ethiopia

Where to begin? All I can say is that this morning, I woke up in Ethiopia. There's so much joy that comes with reading those words as I write them!

Last night, I got into Addis at around 7PM. After finally seeing my luggage and exchanging a little cash, I met Surafel a TOMS consultant here in Addis. We jumped in a small blue and white taxi, drove off a beaten path and I arrived at the Don Bosco location.

A short man with a face mask met us at the gate, somewhat surprised by my arrival. But after checking with the powers that be, remembered me and they brought me to my room. I was greeted by Father Samala, known as Father Sam for short. He is a elderly Indian man who is probably the most hospitable person I've ever met. He gave me a quick tour of my room (which included a hot water shower!) and demanded that I get some rest-apparently I looked tired.

I began to unpack and shortly thereafter was met by Sara and one of her interns. Sara works for IOCC- an international organization doing work in health and education around the world. Sara recently began a podoconiosis treatment program just north of Addis. We spoke for about 30 minutes and then, the sleeping pills began to kick in, so we agreed to meet for a late breakfast in town.

I woke up this morning around 6 AM and laid in bed for about an hour, allowing myself to rest. The shower was heavenly. I'm not sure anything matches the feeling of being clean after a long day or so of travel. After getting ready, I walked down stairs and outside the compound and just smiled at how beautiful the surroundings are. My momentary "taking it all in" was abruptly ended by Father Sam yelling out the window, asking me if I wanted breakfast. I chuckled and then made my way into the cafeteria where I was met by about 8 gentlemen who all invited me to sit down and eat. I immediately reached for the thermos, which I soon discovered was milk- not coffee- much to the delight of the two Ethiopian brothers sitting to my right. I met Brother Cesare- the head honcho here at Don Bosco. He's from Venice and has a thick Italian accent. About 10 minutes later, Father Sam buzzed in and made sure that I had everything- offering me orange jam even though I had already finished my slice of toast. He was so busy tending to me that he forgot he had left his bread soaking in his hot milk. Are you getting the picture yet? This man is an absolute doll.

After breakfast, I met with Brother Cesare for a few minutes. He kept getting phone calls throughout our conversation- and with each call he got increasingly annoyed. "Hello?!" he would say. And then with no emotion, "Good morning." The person would ask how he was doing and he would say "Fine"- the kind of "fine" that clearly was meant to encourage the caller to get on with it. I am already in love with the man. He told me that we will get to visit some of the outreaches of this ministry including a daily street kid program. After arranging for a cab for me for my morning rendezvous with Sara, he said "Ok, good bye", vocally escorting me out of the office. (smile)

I met with Sara at the Lime Tree Cafe towards the center of the city. We enjoyed a light breakfast of scones, butter, and fresh lime juice with mint. I finished it with some Ethiopian coffee (which is AMAZING by the way) and made it back to the compound just in time to meet with Surafel and the real estate agent. We traversed all across Addis, looking at houses. Seriously, we took five hours just driving around, walking through houses for rent. The good news is that I narrowed down what it is we were looking for very quickly-gaining a better picture for this project I'm working on, but today was so good for me. I saw areas that I imagine many people do not see.

The center of town and the markets are literally buzzing with people. I stood out like a sore thumb, though, with my blonde hair and relatively pale skin. Surafel kept laughing at me as I asked questions about culture and why there were so many goats and sheep in the market. Although, I think my favorite reaction from him was his response to me realizing that it is 100% normal for people to relieve themselves on the sides of the streets. No biggie. He suggested that I be "adventurous enough" and try it. I told him that I'd pass this time around.

In about 30 minutes we'll head to the airport to pick up Josh, my colleague. Tomorrow is another full day of house hunting and exploring the city.

Again, it's really amazing and some what unbelievable that I am actually writing this from Ethiopia. It seems like somewhat of a dream. But here I am, it's only day 1, and there is much yet to see and experience.

Until next time,

ACW

Thursday, August 5, 2010

Flights Booked! The Countdown Begins!

It's kind of awesome to think that just a few months ago (April), I had this crazy desire to go and see parts of Africa. Ethiopia came up in a conversation at a conference and then it seemed imperative for me go, see, write, and live differently. And here I am, Giving Special Projects Manager at TOMS Shoes, going to Ethiopia exactly two weeks from today!

As many of you know, TOMS gives shoes in Ethiopia. One of the reasons we do that is to serve as a preventative measure for children at risk for podoconiosis- a seriously debilitating foot disease transmitted through irritant chemicals in the soil. You can read a bit more about it here. It's devastating. Those who contract the disease (usually young adults) not only experience swelling of the feet and legs, but itching and a putrid smell. The psychological trauma that comes with this is frankly unthinkable.

I'll be going with a new TOMS employee- actually the first time we'll be meeting will be at the Addis airport. Our itinerary is pretty full already. We're meeting with various key people working to eradicate podoconiosis while in Addis, visiting podo clinics in Dembidollo and enjoying some of the beautiful countryside. I'll be sure to post pictures and stories, but am now grateful that I am actually able to bring this blog to life.

I read this great quote yesterday from a dear friend, Steve Jennings- To dare is to lose one's footing momentarily. Not to dare is to lose oneself.- Soren Kierkegaard. Here's to daring!  

Thursday, July 15, 2010

I'm Going to Ethiopia!

Hey there,

So after a long time of getting a job, finding a home, and moving across the country, I am FINALLY going to Africa. In August, I'll be in Ethiopia for 2 weeks visiting with some of TOMS' awesome partners in the area.

You'll be able to follow the trip here! And remember the twitter tag! #ACWinAfrica

Amy

Wednesday, April 7, 2010

Still in the Works

Hey all!

So I just got back from the !deation Conference- which rocked. I'll have some updates soon on where I'll be going in the near future.

Stay tuned!

Amy

Tuesday, February 23, 2010

#ACWinAfrica- Contest!

Dear Social Entrepreneurship and International Development World,

I want to take any where from 1-6 months (exact dates to be determined soon) to tell the story of NGO work in development in East and West Africa. I want to look at NGOs- small, medium and large- and share the story of their work, the way they are integrating technology, how they're navigating issues of policy, culture, and economics, the unmet needs of communities and most importantly, capture the stories of real-life impact (or, frankly the lack thereof).

So I need your help. Where should I go? In the 10 countries I will be visiting, I need at least 3 (max. 5) organizations who want to share their story.

Order of the countries I will tentatively be visiting (this is subject to change and adjustment based on submissions and security):

1. Ethiopia
2. Uganda
3. Kenya
4. Rwanda
5. Tanzania
6. Zimbabwe
7. Zambia
8. Angola
9. Nigeria
10. Ghana

So it's up to you. Here's what you do:
  1. First, input your organization and location in the map above.
  2. Second, submit the answers to the following questions as a response to this blog by March 15th.
  • Where should I go?
  • Why should I go there?
  • Tell me about the creative way that your organization of choice is helping their community.
My team will review your submissions and then, on April 1st, I will announce my itinerary. Good luck!

~ACW